Traditional motif designing technique of Tangail cutwork Jamdani, Bangladesh
Faruk W, Barchuk A and Belyaev v
Published on: 2023-02-07
Abstract
On the Indian subcontinent, textiles are an ancient and widely practiced local and regional occupation. Although there is a range of popular styles for making garments, Jamdani remains the most popular. The climate of the region and the skill of artisans have taken this special fabric to the peak of its popularity around the world. It is very fine and quite different in terms of its design, material, and manufacturing process. In general, jamdani is not a type of fabric, but rather a method of design that is referred to as a special technique. Weavers from different parts of Bangladesh have applied this visible style to sarees as well. The method of design has changed from place to place. But its visual representation has remained the same since ancient times. In this research, the earliest systems and calculations of this design variation will be deliberated, as well as the method for designing Jamdani motifs in Tangail according to their own style. It will include the method for entering calculations and graphical illustrations, along with some of the simple arithmetic. It will explain the technique as clearly as possible so that anyone interested can learn the method very easily. The future sustainability of traditional crafts is very important. Times and eras have changed. At the same time, different styles of weaving have also changed. The electric power loom is replacing the handloom day by day. But in the last few years, there has not been much change in business in this region. Possibly, this is a result of designers changing their careers, and no longer wanting to work in this field. Or, it may be due to not having enough opportunity to do research on the Jamdani motif. The upcoming generation of fashion designers also relies heavily on local artists. It is hoped that newcomers will be able to master this design technique. In this way, it is possible to bring a revolution to the fashion and weaving industry of Bangladesh.
Keywords
Jamdani design; Saree; Design technique; Motif; Design calculation; TangailIntroduction
Sulaiman, a 9th-century Arab traveller, wrote of cotton fabrics made in the kingdom of Rahmi (erstwhile undivided Bengal) which were so fine they could pass through a signet ring. Around the 12th century, Islamic influences infused the fabric with countless motifs and colors. The technique created motif-rich fabrics that bore poetic names like Shabnam (morning dew), Ab-i-rawan (flowing water) and Baftnama (woven wind). It was during the Mughal emperor Akbar's reign that the art blossomed into its most exquisite form—the flowered muslin, Jamdani. Jamdani was widely admired around the world for its unique features and unique designs. It was made almost all over Bangladesh. The artisans of Jamdani, however, moved to Tangail after partition and established a unique source of Jamdani there. It is this
jamdani that is the subject of this study. Its loom parts are different and it has specific techniques and calculations for designing. But the design of jamdani hasn't changed in the same way as colors, fashion trends, motifs, or patterns in modern fashion. As a result, a large modern population has turned away from this industry. In the last few years, many of the younger generations have come into the fashion business and improved it. Of course, the business has risen, but not significantly. Because not much work has been done on the motif on the other hand the design technique is time-consuming and complex. This is exactly where this research concern about. I learned the whole technique from the designers visiting the weaving villages here and aim to simplify this complex strategy as much as possible. Therefore, it can also be used by the upcoming generation of designers to express their talents and art.
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