Evaluation of the Anti-Ageing Potential of a New Dermocosmetic Containing Retinoids Mix Through In Vitro Models

Gasperina DD and Guida S

Published on: 2021-07-27

Abstract

Physiological ageing due to the passing of time and prolonged exposure to harmful sun rays generate wrinkles and reduce skin elasticity. These visible and clinical signs can be prevented or reversed rely on known strategies, as the daily use of cosmetic products with antioxidant combinations or retinoids. A new dermocosmetic formulation enriched with a complex of retinoids, called RETINOIDS SERUM, was investigated through in vitro assays using human skin cells. The experiments were carried out to assess the anti-ageing activity in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (HaCaT). After the preliminary MTT assay, the proliferation together with the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers was performed on NHDF cells after 24 h treatment with the two non-cytotoxic concentrations. Using UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, the measurement of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels was also investigated. Potential irritating and hazard risk was evaluated on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) and Human Reconstructed Corneal Epithelium (HCE) 3D models, close to human skin and eye tissues. In vitro studies show the safety of the dermocosmetic product and the biological effectiveness, improving collagen and elastin synthesis together with a renewal of dermal fibroblasts. In addition, a reduction in the MMP-1 secretion was also highlighted in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. These results demonstrate that a panel of in vitro assays can be helpful to support the safety and the anti-ageing effect of the cosmetic formulation containing functional compounds as retinoids to prevent the natural sign of ageing.